Fishing America Stories
While fishing alone on a dock in Kauai’s Salt Pond boat harbor, I landed this cute fish. The locals call it a Balloon Fish. It is also called a Puffer and it is famous in Japan. Chefs spend years learning how to remove the poison so as to serve it. Even so, there are deaths every year when the fish isn’t cleaned correctly.
Balloon Fish have very sharp teeth that usually cut the line when it is hooked. I caught this fish and then brought eight more to the top where they broke the line as I tried hoisting them from the water. When I hooked the tenth fish, it swam in circles as I reeled it in. Following it was a second Balloon fish swimming in circles, apparently trying to be part of the fun. This scene reminded me of drawings of the double helix.
I managed to land this fish and when I removed the mangled bent hook, I saw four more of my hooks in its mouth. I figured the other four missing hooks were in the other fish’s mouth. Not only are they cute and poisonous and fun loving, they are stupid.
I caught seven different species of fish in Hawaii, all very small.
Dick showed me an article in Life magazine published in the mid-1950s about Salmon fishing in Norway. There was a two-page photograph of a man in a boat floating a river and fishing. It was his dad, whose real passion was fishing. Though Dick likes fishing and remembers good-times fishing with his dad, he hadn’t fished for a while. He is addicted to his work. I can relate.
First we went to a fly fishing shop and purchased a pamphlet on fishing knots. I didn’t need the book, as I know one knot and that is all I want to know. We also acquired a book showing us where to fish.
A map in this book directed us to a spot on the Farmington River, a noted trout stream in the north central part of the state. When we arrived, there were seven other fisherman. The river has Brookies, Browns and Rainbows. We thought it humorous that everyone was dressed in waders and vests and we were in shorts and tennis shoes. We wanted to catch more fish than the other guys, but it didn’t happen. We saw several fish caught, but we didn’t catch anything. Maybe there is more to know about trout fishing than how to tie a knot.
Bud and Cathy live in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and they have a mountain summer cabin on the shore of Silver Lake, not far from where they live. Bud and I signed a fishing contract to fish for Golden Trout. The plan was to hike on the Pacific Crest trail to a lake located around the 9,500 ft elevation. Bud, his son, Ebe and I started our five-mile (each way) walk. About half way up the trail we talked to a couple guys going to the same lake. A little further up, we reached a spot where the drop-off below the trail was too steep for my acrophobia. Ebe is also afraid of heights, so we retreated and went fishing elsewhere.
A couple days later we were in a café having breakfast when the two guys we had seen on the trail came in to eat. They said they tried to sleep next to the lake, but the winds were so strong it rolled them around and kept them awake. Even worse: They didn’t catch any fish.
I changed the Fishing America rules. That’s what I like about making up my own games. I decided to go for what we called a “triple;” a Brookie, a Rainbow and a Brown. I did it.
NOTE: CALIFORNIA FISHER HAS WRITTEN THIS CHAPTER AS A GUEST AUTHOR. IT HASN’T BEEN SENT TO ME YET
On the way from my house in Wisconsin to Mike’s house in a Kentucky suburb of Cincinnati, I experienced good weather all the way, but it rained all around me. The next day I read there had been over seventy tornadoes from Alabama to Mississippi to Illinois to Ohio and places in-between, some close to where I had driven.
From Mike’s house we went to a lock and dam on the Ohio River where we didn’t catch any fish in the chocolate colored water. We drove to a river known for its supply of Kentucky Bass, but the water was also high and brown, so we didn’t even stop. At a state park we fished above and below a dam, but it was the same problem. At the next spot, a three acre man-made lake, we split up. I didn’t have any hits, but Mike caught 2 Kentucky Bass. I’m sick of high water.
Due to a problem in Mike’s family, he and his wife have inherited a one-year-old grandniece. Mike says it is nice being parents again, but more work than when they were younger. He doesn’t think we can go fishing again, so I plan to retrace our route sometime in the future, alone, to catch a Kentucky bass.
I decided to fish alone in Alabama and try to catch a species I’ve not caught elsewhere. It didn’t matter what. I didn’t catch a new species, but I caught some fish.
I met up with a guy who had his fishing equipment, but he couldn’t afford bait. He bummed bait from me. This happened late in the day on the Orange Beach fishing pier after I had fished several other places without much luck.
He saw we were running out of bait, so when I caught a White Catfish, he said, “Good, Now cut it into strips and we’ll use it as bait.”
We did this and I caught a Pinfish. He said, “Good, Now cut it into strips and we’ll use it as bait.”
We did this and I caught a White Catfish. This went on until it was too dark to cut up bait. I can tell you this, “You can catch White Catfish on Pinfish chunks and you can catch Pinfish on White Catfish strips.”
I like the architecture of this fishing pier.
James Holmes was the first person I contacted after I conceived of the Fishing America project. He is responsible for the creation of the fishing contract that was drawn up to hold people to their plan to fish with me. At the time James lived in Kansas and he agreed to fish with me in Colorado, which he did. He now lives in the desert near Santa Fe, New Mexico.
In 1972 I was a visiting artist at Illinois State University in Normal. As a visiting artist I created a limited edition lithograph with a master printer, named Steve Britko. Steve and I hit it off well and we vowed to stay in touch. He moved and I moved and we lost contact, so it came as a surprise when I was talking to James in 2002 and he mentioned that he walks every morning with his neighbor and friend, Steve Britko.
Since I had fished with James in Colorado and since I wanted to fish with a different person in each state I talked Steve into signing the New Mexico contract.
Fishing New Mexico was a big deal to me, because it was going to be the 50th and final state. My grandson, Jay and I arrived at James and Susan Holmes house on the second Sunday of June 2003. I handed James some homegrown garlic. “It’s organic,” I proudly said
“That’s okay, I have some chemicals I can put on them.”
James told us he and Steve had been fishing the day before.
“I thought you were branding cattle?”
“We did that in the morning and fished in the afternoon. That’s our version of multitasking. You want to go for a ride?”
“Sure, but only if you drive. I’ve been driving for three and a half days. Where?”
“To the Pecos River. I’ll show you where to fish for the Rio Grande Cutthroat.”
We did just that, seeing the town of Tererro, with its combination store-horse stable. The town of Cowles, which is just a county highway department pile of dirt, a dumpster and two ponds; one for kids and handicapped people, the other for anyone who doesn’t want to fish this catch and release only portion of the Pecos River. We saw Jack’s Creek campground and Panchuela Creek campground.
James talked about fishing for trout. He advised us, “Go beyond the Bud Line.”
“What’s that?” asked Jay, before I could ask.
“That’s the greatest distance most fisherman will fish from the beer cooler.” James said, smiling, because he knew he was right.
The next day Jay and I went to Panchuela Creek campground, because it was cheaper than the other campground and because the parking lot was somewhat guarded by the US Forest Service living compound next to it. Also, the creek was reported to have some Rio Grande Cutthroat. At least Dave’s Creek, which runs into Panchuela Creek, has a population of these fish.
I fished three solid days, in the Dave's Creek tributary of Panchuela Creek, in the Panchuela Creek tributary of the Pecos River and in the Pecos River without catching a fish. Jay, fished for a little while the first day and decided fly-fishing isn’t for him. He hiked and played in the creek and did sixteen-year-old things while I fished and I fished, trying to catch just one fish. That’s all I wanted, one Rio Grande Cutthroat.
The fourth day we went to Santa Fe for a halfhearted attempt at tourism. It didn’t take long to decide it is a theme park, so we were sitting in James’s yard when he drove up the drive, opened the car door and asked, “Catch any?”
“No.”
“Did you fish?” He asked sarcastically.
“I fished a lot, ask Jay.”
“He fished a lot.”
“Yesterday I had five hits, and a swirl, but I didn’t hook any of them.”
“Oh! Larry!”
The car radio was on: “Hi! Dave Workman, president of Altman Electronics. As a dad there’s no more important holiday than Father’s Day. Since, I’m in a position that I can do something about it, I’ve decided that now through Saturday Altman Electronics is holding the mother of all father’s day sales…”
“It’s not like I’m a moron or anything,” says James, “but I could have left the key somewhere for you and you could have gone in and taken a shower and slept and done your laundry and… GET DOWN!” he yelled at Queenie, the wilder of his two dogs. “THANK YOU!”
“It’s no big deal.” I said, “Are you set on going up there tomorrow?”
“I got the day off. Why?”
“Would you consider a different place? It’s about a hundred miles further.”
“To?”
“Cuba.”
“Ouch! God damn it! Bad Dog! Actually, I wonder if we have the same place?”
“Cuba. Turn right; continue about eight miles to the parking lot. Go another two miles to the Rio de Las Vacas River.”
We talked about this for a while and realized the place I was told about is the same place James was told about by the people at his favorite fly-fishing shop.
The dogs are panting loudly as I tell him, “The guy said you walk about a half mile up stream past the old dam and there is an open area called a… I can’t remember anything anymore. What is it called?”
“Flat water.”
“No.”
The land is called what?
“Valley?”
“No.”
“Prairie? Flats?”
“No. No.”
“Let’s go inside.”
“Mesa?”
“No.”
“Plateau?”
“No.”
“You’re talking about a flat area?”
“It’s an area where the valley gets wider.”
James went looking for the UPS parcels that had been delivered. When he returned, I said, “Meadow!”
James talked about his landlord, Henry, and landlady, Peg.
Henry’s father was the first ranch foreman for Arthur Peck, who started the Ghost Ranch. Peg is the daughter of Arthur Peck.
They grew up on the Ghost Ranch and he knew Peg.
When Peg was about twelve, her mother ran off with an archeologist, a famous archeologist. Arthur stayed there a long time. Peg moved with her mother and new archeologist husband to Albuquerque. He became the head of the Archeology Department at the University. His name was Frank Gibbon and he was the guy who came up with theory of Sandia Man; how people got to North America. He also came up with the theory that there were six different types of people who came over on the Bering Straight.
It turns out that Frank fabricated a lot of his research. He became known as Fibbin’ Gibbon. In 1995 New Yorker did an article about him. That was Peg’s step dad. The Peck family had a lot of money. Peg married an archeologist also. He committed suicide. He had Manure’s disease of the ears. He did a lot of books on Indian Art, which are still available. He had a trading Post in Tucson.
“So they are older people?” I asked.
“She’s seventy four and Henry is seventy six. They got together in about 1978 or something like that. Arthur always liked Henry, even though Henry’s dad moved on, Henry came back and worked on the ranch during the summers. I think Henry thought he would get the Ghost Ranch… They were that tight. But in 1965, Arthur found religion and he gave the place to the Presbyterian Church.
First they built a house and lived in it for about a year while the compound was being built. Right after they moved to the compound, Georgia O’Keefe showed up and rented the house from them.
“Where did she come from? New York I assume.”
“She taught for a year in Canyon Texas at Panhandle Plains State College and she went from there to the Ghost Ranch. Arthur grew up with her and refers to her as the weird lady.”
“They considered her weird?”
“Yeah. Very private! Peg told me something real funny. They would go down to see her and she would give them candy to leave.”
“Henry and Peg have some incredible photo albums of the Ghost Ranch. The Ghost Ranch was amazing. You know the big touring cars of the 1920s? They used to take a six-week trip, overland, from the Ghost Ranch to the Grand Canyon through the Navajo Reservation. Overland! Not on roads.”
“Did they have roads then?” I asked.
“They don’t have roads out there now.”
We headed toward a Mexican restaurant. As soon as we sat down a guy walked over to our table and talked to James about all the business he has with his chuck wagon service. When he left, James said, “He’s an incredibly good cook. I knew we were at the right place, if this is where the cooks go to eat.
James asked if there were other fisherman where we had camped and fished. I told him, “Not many. Down stream, right by the parking lot, there were several fish in the stream. I tried to catch them, but they apparently didn’t know what a fly is. I think the Fish and Game people dropped the fish in that morning. The second day I went back and there were three locals fishing with Salmon eggs and they had caught all of them, Rainbows about six inches in size.”
James said, “You were within the Bud Lines.”
I suggested, “Maybe, since we both got the same information about the Rio de Las Vacas, we should go there tomorrow.”
A guy who works with James came over to our table and talked for a while. After he left, James said, “He’s French Canadian. He and his girl friend recently moved here from Maine.” Then after a short pause he added, “Yeah! That’s where we’ll go tomorrow, up to Cuba.
“I still don’t believe you didn’t catch any fish at the Pecos River. Anything interesting happen?”
“The first day, Jay walked up the creek to the caves. The stream flows into the cave and runs under ground for about a block before reappearing again. He went into the cave and wished he had a flashlight.”
Jay popped in, “I put my hand down on a rock and there was a flashlight.”
I continued, “I started walking to the caves, made it about three quarters of the way, but I was tired and decided to abort the walk when I ran into Jay and we returned to the campsite together.
“We went up to the parking lot, and ran into a woman who is a genetic engineer in Washington DC. She was staying with a friend who works for the US Forest Service and lives in the Forest service compound next to the parking lot.
“On another trip to the parking lot we found a very small zip lock bag with what was probably cocaine in it.”
James didn’t have to think long on that subject, “That lot is a natural place to do drug deals.”
I continued, “The next morning when I went to get something from the car, four forest service trucks caravaned into the parking lot. Two guys got out of each vehicle and after a meeting, one of them walked around the five-site campground looking for something. When he returned I asked why they were there and he said, ‘we have a report of a broken bottle in the campground, but I couldn’t find it.” On my way back to our campsite I found it and told them where it was located. The designated “worker” picked it up and they got in their trucks and drove away.”
“Later in the day I was talking to another guy in the parking lot who was getting ready to back pack to the caves with his two sons. The older one was going to carry a backpack for the first time. They seemed to take forever to get ready. I said, ‘Hope the walk doesn’t take as long as the packing.’ The guy explained that it would be too dark to pitch a tent when they arrived and thus they needed to find their flashlight, which they couldn’t find. I lent them the one Jay found and off they went. I halfway didn’t expect to see it again, but the next day they came back to our campsite and returned it.
“In the evening we were back at the parking lot, getting some supplies from the car and I talked to two fishermen who had just fished Dave’s creek. They had caught two Brown trout each. That’s how I got the Rio de Las Vacas information.”
James grabbed the bill from the waitress. “Come on James, I took some money out of the bank today with my debit card.”
He wasn’t going to give me the bill, “Those debit cards are real nice, aren’t they?”
“Yes” I said, “Traveling across the country in the sixties, you had better start your trip with enough money and hope you didn’t lose it.”
“Yeah, I remember in 1981 driving from Crede, Colorado to Lawrence, Kansas with a friend. I had a Standard oil credit card for gas and between us we had $3.81. I think maybe that’s why robbing liquor stores became popular.”
James told us the difference between a Mexican restaurant and a Northern New Mexico restaurant, “New Mexican restaurants use green chili and lots of it.” He prefers the Mexican. He then told us that breakfast burritos are really good.
In the morning James and Jay and I headed toward Cuba, stopping in Bernalillo for breakfast burritos, which were so good we went back for seconds.
In Cuba we stopped at the US Forest Service office for directions. They said we should go to the parking lot and walk the mile up to San Gregorio reservoir. A little further up we could fish Clear Creek, which has Rio Grande Cutthroat. We asked where the road turns out of Cuba and they said to go back the way we came and catch the “Go-round” which goes around Cuba. It meets the road we want. We looked for it for a few minutes and decided to go into town and find the road we wanted. James muttered, “It must be their little joke on tourists.”
We drove about ten miles into the mountains to the parking lot where we met three guys who were starting their walk to San Gregorio reservoir. James and Jay and these guys walked the three quarters of a mile up to the lake as I fell behind.
On the way to the reservation, I met two Fish and Game guys. They had driven up the trail a couple of days earlier and they damaged the road. The US Forest Service people told them they had to repair the trail or not use it again. They still had to take a load of fish to the reservation, so they gave in on the issue. While I was talking to these guys, a fisherman walked up to us carrying a real nice Rainbow. He had fished the lake for several hours having only one hit. He was happy though, because he caught the fish. The Fish and Game guys they were so proud to have stocked that fish they photographed it.
While James and Jay waited for me at the reservation they were told that Clear Creek trail goes to the Rio de Las Vacas. Since they had walked there in the past, they gave us good directions. The best part of the directions was, “You will know when you are there.”
As we walked on, I still thought we were going another mile to fish Clear Creek, but James and Jay knew we were going further to fish the Rio de Las Vacas. It was another half mile when I saw a sign for ‘Rio de Las Vacas- six miles’. They told me not to believe it, so I kept walking.
We came upon a very small tributary of Clear Creek and I started fishing, while James and Jay walked on. After a couple casts, I talked to a passing troop of boy scouts and they suggested I go further up the trail, “It’s real pretty up there.”
I walked on to the next stream. I fished there until Jay returned to tell me, “James has caught two fish already.”
Jay and I walked to the Rio de Las Vacas. It was a meadow, a most beautiful meadow and a most beautiful stream, full of Rio Grande Cutthroat trout.
After putting my waders on, I started crawling around sneaking up on the fish. When I hooked the first fish, I over-reacted; setting the hook so hard the fish went flying through the air, landing unhooked in the next pool down stream. Soon I came upon a large pool of fish. I worked my way over to the side where I would not be seen by these fish. I sat about ten feet from the bank and cast my fly into the pool. After several hits, the action stopped and I changed to a different fly. After several more hits I changed the fly again. After many fly changes and three or four hits on each fly, I realized I was fishing with barb-less hooks and that was why I wasn’t able to hook a fish, so I changed to a number 16 barbed dry fly. I caught the fish, a Rio Grande Cutthroat.
I left the digital camera at James’ house and took my better camera on this trip, because I wanted to have the best quality picture of this fish if and when I caught it. The camera broke during the walk up the trail. So there I was, holding the only Rio Grande Cutthroat I will probably ever see and my camera is broken. Jay was watching me fish and luckily, he had his digital camera with him. He gets credit for the photograph I used to make the print.
James and I both walked rather slowly back to the car. On the way James told me he had caught about a dozen fish.
That evening we headed over to Steve Britko’s house to talk about our trip. On the way we talked about how far we walked. It had taken me two hours and forty-five minutes each way. When we got there we talked about how far we had walked. On the way back to James’ house we talked about how far we had walked. I also told them, “It’s Friday the 13th and it’s a full moon and when I called home I was told my 8th grandchild was born today. A girl.”
“Congratulations! What’s her name?”
“You would have to know my son and my daughter-in-law to understand this… since she was born at home with a midwife, they don’t have to come up with a name immediately, so they haven’t. They are talking about waiting until she is old enough to choose her own name. They are also considering Sabine. I suggested, ‘Full Moon Friday the 13th’. Maybe ‘Rio Grande Cutthroat’ or ‘Thirteen and a Half Mile Walk.’”
My five-day fishing permit had expired and I didn’t want to spend any more money. Besides that, I had already caught my targeted fish species, so Saturday morning Jay and I tagged along with James and Steve, when they went fishing in Cow Creek. Jay climbed a mountain and I took photographs with my digital camera while James and Steve fished. Steve caught two Brown Trout. James saw a fish.
The area had a forest fire about three years earlier and I took several digital photographs of this burnt forest. I think burnt forests have a very beautiful quality.
While James was getting BBQ to take home for dinner, Steve and I talked.
Steve said he just started fishing again this year after a fifteen-year hiatus.
I asked, “Didn’t you and James fish last year from your horses in Colorado?”
“That’s right. It was the damnedest thing. The lake was full of Kokanee Salmon.”
I egged him on. “James told me some of this, but I don’t remember the details.”
“We were helping a friend round up his cattle in Colorado. We came across a fence the Fish and Game people put across the river that flows into the lake. The Kokes were trying to swim up stream to spawn and they were pilled up below the fence. They were already on top of each other before we rode our horses into the stream. We had the fish jumping out of the water onto the shore.”
“So you fished using horses instead of fishing poles?”
“I guess you can say that”
“They weren’t too far gone?”
“Oh No! They were good to eat.”
“Where have all the flowers gone…” is playing in the background and we already had heard two other covers by Johnny Rivers. Steve said, “This must be called, ‘Johnny Rivers Sings Everybody’.
Steve asked, “How many galleries do you have representing your work?”
“I used to have over a hundred, but it’s down to about twenty. My fame didn’t last very long. When I switched from doing black and white high contrast images to color images, I lost a large museum following. But there are trends that happen in art.”
“For sure!
“I’ve never been part of a trend.” I paused and continued, “I really believe art curators try to control the direction of art.”
“Of course they do, Larry and gallery people do too.”
“Maybe, but I believe most gallery people will go with the flow. Whatever sells.”
Steve agreed, “If you aren’t selling, you're gone.”
“Where have all the flowers gone… Oh, Where have all the flowers gone…”
Another guy stopped for the last order of BBQ. I said, “That’s funny, when you get older, everyone looks like someone you have met before.”
“Secret agent man, Secret agent man, they’ve given you a number…”
We talked about another printer I worked with in the past, “How many prints did you do with him?”
“Two.”
“Did you ever get paid?”
“I got half the prints. He got half the prints. He sold his half and I consigned half my half to him.”
“Then you never heard from him again, right?”
“Sort of.”
“Did you ever call him on it?”
“Yes. He said his ex-wife did it.”
“So!”
“He meant he wasn’t responsible. And his sales person in Kansas City ripped me off too. He was going through some problems with lithium use and he asked for me to consign some rare black and white nude prints I had done in the early 60s. I asked him, ‘How do I know I wouldn’t get ripped off? Everyone else you deal with gets ripped off!’ He said he was over that period and things were better for him. The next thing I hear is that he went into see one of my other Kansas City dealers and asks her if he can give her my prints, because he doesn’t want them anymore. She thinks there is something fishy about this and doesn’t take them. He then goes to my other dealer in town, who is always willing to help anyone out, so the prints end up there. When I received the list of what he left there, I find six or seven prints are missing. I called him and he says, ‘Oh, That was during my lithium period and I don’t remember anything about it. Things have changed now.’ I haven’t talked to him since, but that probably doesn’t matter to him.”
“Are all your dealers consignment galleries?”
“Yes. The days of outright sales are over. Art dealers know they don’t have to buy anything. I used to travel across the country and be able to sell a print whenever I ran out of money. Now, I couldn’t sell a print for enough money to buy a Fun Meal.”
James returned with the BBQ and announced, “He’s from Argentina.” The BBQ smell filled the car all the way back to James’ house. After dinner, I suggested the place would soon be selling franchises and we could get the same meal in Evanston Illinois. James lamented, “Colonel Manuel’s BBQ.”
The following day, Jay and I were ready to hightail it home. We drove up through the mountains for a last view of the area (including Taos-another amusement park) and on to the center of Kansas. The day after that, I drove over 750 miles to get home.
I think New Mexico is one neat place, especially the Rio de Las Vacas River, where I caught the Rio Grande Cutthroat. This trip was such a great “Grand Finale” for the “Fishing America” project. Who could ask for anything more!